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Le conformateur

The « conformateur » was invented in 1843 by Allié and Maillard, two French hatters ; it is used to identify the perfect form of the skull to make custom hats. By reproducing the oval shape of the head, it allows the edges to adjust without creasing. It was initially used for rigid hats such as le melon and le haut-de-forme for a problem of comfort, and is only used very rarely today, except in the workshop !

The felt, soaked in steam, must be pulled over a wooden mold corresponding to the shape of the chosen model and the size of the customer's head. With the aid of a string, it’s at this time that the future height of the hat is defined. The edges are then flattened according to classic millinery techniques, forming the hat in one piece and thus avoiding adding the unpleasant thickness of a seam at the head entrance.

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Drawing the felt

Private clientele

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Le coupe bord

This very old tool makes it possible to cut the brim of the hat in a single gesture. Composed of a plate mounted on two fixed sprockets, they allow to adjust the width of the front and back, and the right and left sides. Its cutting edge allows a clean and precise cut of the edge respecting the ovality of the hat. It makes it possible to master an aspect of millinery, according to which it is customary to have a slightly shorter edge on the back.

The contours of the hat are drawn and it is necessary to proceed to the sewing of all the elements: head entrance belt, coarse, knot, headdress and other additions. A piano wire, sewn flush with the edge of a Homburg, is braided with a large grain sewn by hand with an invisible stitch. The edge of a Fedora can be folded-stitched, topstitched, a secret pocket can even slip into the headdress...

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Le mascottage

The final step of the hat and the exact definition of its contours are played here. Under a cloud of steam, the cap of the hat is given a round, long, or split shape and the hollows are printed with more or less depth. This operation is carried out freehand, in order to respect the singularity of each piece.


Pauline's know-how

When taking the measurement, Pauline will advise you according to your tastes and your morphology to find the lines of your future hat. Everything is modifiable and adjustable on the headgear : the width of the brim, the height and shape of the cap and all the choices of finishes you could want !
Pauline, who has the label “Fabriqué à Paris” label, imagines and makes all her headgear there. It also welcomes partners there.

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